Review: Monti’s brings grinder sorcery to New London

I’ve always admired folks that focus on one specific thing and work at it until they can do it really well.

That description doesn’t apply to 71-year-old Steve Montinari, who over the course of his life as a native New Londoner has focused on SEVERAL things and done them well. He worked at Electric Boat for 47 years; he owned Montinari’s Shoe Repair; he tended bar at Tony D’s for two decades; he was a kids’ baseball coach.

Not only did he excel in these capacities, he enjoyed all of them immensely.

Maybe that’s why he was great at them.

Fortunately, at this point, Monti — as he likes to be called — has narrowed his concentration to one exclusive thing that he does well. He makes grinders. Really excellent grinders.

He does so in his Monti’s Market, located in a storefront at the corner of Montauk Avenue and Lower Boulevard in a building that also houses residential apartments and a hair salon. People like me who live in the neighborhood – which used to be called “the Sixth District” until it wasn’t called that anymore for reasons no one ever explained to me – have watched over the years as the space has hosted many businesses including a Fox’s Pizza Den, a convenience store or two and, most recently, the Montauk Market. I joked once in print that the spot was once an astronaut recruitment center.

In any case, last summer, Monti, with the help of extended family and friends, moved into the storefront and slowly transformed the facilities into what might be called a grinder-fan recruitment center.

A grinder is a grinder is an excellent grinder

There’s nothing nouveau or conceptually groundbreaking on the menu. Grinders, which are served on loaves delivered daily from Giuliano’s in Niantic, are of a time-honored tradition. Available at Monti’s in large or small varieties ($7.99-$15.99), they include regular or Genoa salami, tuna, capicola, turkey, chicken salad, soupy, the Italian combo, sausage and sauteed red peppers, homemade meatballs and sauce and veggies/meatless.

By now I’ve tried over half the possibilities and they’re consistently excellent. I say that with the understanding that there are only so many ways to nuance a grinder. In fact, a cynic might suggest it’s hard to screw up a grinder. Unless you’re one of those Michelin multi-star culinary wizards who might take it upon his- or herself to broaden the concept of a grinder by offering a “sumac-rubbed loin of tortoise grinder with Cypriot sheep cheese and fennel/jicama slaw on a French roll.” For $67.50.

Monti is comfortably traditional. The sandwiches are huge, the ingredients fresh and each grinder is sculpted to order. It’s not as though there are a pile of roast beef grinders the crew cranked out before the start of the business day in preparation for a lunch rush.

The art of the sandwich

Monti makes his own meatballs, which is a fine place to start. They’re large and tasty and fit perfectly with the similarly house-made marinara. The seasonings are comfortably familiar and perfect, with a rich, mellow vibe. Melted provolone is the embracing quilt that lines the bread and, again, echoes the mild flavors rather than attempting any clever contrast.

Another hot miracle is the sausage and sauteed red peppers. The chunks of sweet sausage pop in savory fashion with each bite. The peppers — as opposed to the more familiar grilled green peppers/onion combo — add a bright flash to the construct.

The Italian is a masterpiece with layers of ham, capicola and genoa topped with just-from-the-vine tomato slices, cool and crisp lettuce leaves, oil, salt and pepper and provolone. Same ol’ directions and ingredients; it’s HOW Monti and company put it all together.

And the chicken salad grinder! Recently, I asked for one and Monti said, “I’m just making the chicken salad. Go let your dogs out and by then I’ll be ready!”

As the sign on the door says “dogs are always welcome — and certain people.” Monti knows we have hounds because we walk by daily and he’s been known to head to the door to hand Mabel and Virgil treats.

In any case, after dog duty, I picked up my grinder. Wow. Big chunks of chicken breast, a touch of mayo, finely chopped onion bites for an unexpected exclamation point of heat and texture, folded over provolone — it’s the sort of summery sandwich that, on reflection, you’ll want all year.

I seem to have waxed grinder for a bit. Let me quickly add: there are fresh salads ($9.99-$11.99) and a daily house made soup — the vegetarian with black eyed peas is pretty great ($5-$10). Also: chips and snacks; desserts; a cooler of Tony D’s ice cream and sauces including marinara, vodka, Bolognese and Alfredo; soft drinks; and even some household staples should you find yourself in need.

Oh, and winter’s coming. Look for Monti to start making some hot dishes that can be happily used for family dinners on chilly evenings. Lasagna, for example — and TRY the lasagna soup!

My recommendation, then: Go for the food and hang around and chat with the succession of neighborhood regulars and old friends who’ve already adopted the place as a second home. There are, after all, a few inside and outside tables for on-site consumption and conversation.

All I’d ask? Monti’s closes at 4 p.m., which makes it tough for those of us who typically work later. Maybe Monti will just give me a key to the place. That wouldn’t work, though. There’s just something magical about the way THEY make a grinder.

6 Lower Blvd., New London

(860) 574-9217

Cuisine: Mostly take-out grinders, soup, salads and specials

Atmosphere: Clean, bright, simple storefront with room for a few on-site diners

Reservations: Call ahead recommended for large orders

Prices: Competitively priced for really big sandwiches

Credit cards: Yes

Handicapped accessibility: Level with outside curb

Hours: 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Tues.-Sat., 10 a.m.-2 p.m. Sun.

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